Naples & Ischia: A Journey Through Italy’s Most Captivating

Island Escape

 

Eight days spent exploring the Bay of Napoly. After a few days in and around Naples, discovering the historic centre, Mount Vesuvius, Pompeii, and the Path of the Gods along the Amalfi Coast,  we hopped on a boat bound for Ischia.

 

Just across the water from Napoly, Ischia is a small island, far less famous than Capri yet wonderfully peaceful. We visited in October, and I have to admit, it’s one of my favourite times of year to travel. The weather can be a little unpredictable, but the atmosphere is so much more relaxed.

 

Arriving on the island feels almost cinematic, with Ischia’s lush green hills rising dramatically from the sea. At the port, colourful façades, seaside cafés and that laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere instantly set the tone. Our host, Mariella, came to pick us up and introduced us to her island through all her favourite local spots.

 

At this time of year, the island feels as though it’s gently slowing down for the season. Buses run less frequently, so we embraced the true Italian dolce vita and explored Ischia by scooter.

 

One of our favourite discoveries was the botanical garden La Mortella, “the land of myrtles”, created in the late 1950s and early 1960s around the former home of the English composer Sir William Walton. Spread across more than two hectares and several terraces, the gardens are home to over 3,000 plant species, along with little streams, fountains and peaceful pools.

 

Ischia is also a volcanic island, so naturally we couldn’t resist hiking up Monte Epomeo, its highest point, offering breathtaking views over the Bay of Naples. The summit is surprisingly green, dotted with vineyards clinging to the hillsides. One detail I particularly loved: along the trail, benches carved directly into the stone invite you to stop, catch your breath and simply take in the landscape.

 

And then there are the thermal waters. In the Bay of Sorgeto, on the island’s southern coast, natural hot springs flow straight into the sea, making it possible to swim all year round — the perfect way to unwind after climbing Monte Epomeo.

 

On our way to Castello Aragonese, we stumbled upon a restaurant with the most incredible view. We instantly fell in love with it, the red-and-white tiled floor, the flowing curtains, the tiny balcony tables overlooking the sea. The only curious detail? The doors were wide open, yet there wasn’t a soul in sight. It was the end of the season, and most of the staff had already gone on holiday.

 

Eventually, the chef appeared, welcomed us in, sat at our table and simply asked what we would like to eat. A few moments later, he disappeared back into the kitchen and prepared what were quite possibly the best pasta dishes we’ve ever had.

 

We ended the trip with a visit to Castello Aragonese, which once again left us speechless. From the top, the sea stretches endlessly ahead, with the island of Capri appearing in the distance.

 

Ischia is the kind of place that encourages you to slow down. Small, peaceful and endlessly calming, it’s the perfect escape for anyone looking to savour Italy at a gentler pace.