Changing Landscapes On The Silk Trail

Posted by William, 9th April 2024

One of the joys of doing a self-guided walking holiday is enjoying the landscapes as they change with each hour, with new vistas around each and every corner. But what is less obvious are the changes that happen to these landscapes over time.

We often think that the countryside we see when we’re out walking, whether it’s in our own backyard or on a walking holiday, is timeless, especially if it’s a beautiful rural scene with few settlements. But except for some truly wild areas most landscapes, including the ones we cherish are the result of using the land to feed, clothe and protect ourselves.

I was reminded of this during my recent visit to the Cevennes in southern France, exploring a potential new destination for our walking holidays or tailor-made holidays. Here the steep slopes of schist rock descend from the high plateaux and summits such as Mont Aigoual down to the plains and limestone crags north of Montpellier and Nimes. These steep slopes harbour some beautiful villages and hamlets which cling to the south-facing slopes. Built from local stone they seem in perfect harmony with their rugged surroundings. The area around the settlements is covered in terraces cut into the steep slopes and maintained by sturdy walls of granite.

But these were not the only man-made structures that were visible, there were also many large factory-style buildings located close to the river Herault and other streams. These impressive buildings were built at least a century ago but are now mainly abandoned or only in partial use. What was this former industry that has now disappeared? The other mystery (at least until we googled it!) was the former use of the small gite where we were staying. We learned that this historic and much more modest building was converted from what was called a Magnanerie or in English a Magnanery. A more common name would be a silk farm!

It turns out that most of the farm complexes we could see in the landscape had a dedicated building for the raising of silkworms. During the 18^th and 19^th centuries, these terraces were covered in Mulberry trees to allow silkworms to produce their cocoons (known as sericulture). The large buildings mentioned earlier were where the silk cocoons were sent for extraction and conditioning. The silk was then sent to Lyon.

The city of Lyon had been appointed by Francis I of France as the storage site for all silks entering France. Mulberry trees, were planted along the Rhone and beyond as Lyon’s silk industry flourished over the centuries, forging close ties with the royal court, and benefiting from the expertise of talented master-weavers, who developed new styles and technological advances.

But from the late 19th century the silk trade declined due to cheaper imports, especially after the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. Progressively the Mulberry trees were ripped up and the terraces abandoned or replanted with chestnuts, like elsewhere in the Cevennes. But in more recent years some are being used for growing sweet onions, a product that is now protected by its own appellation.

The onions doux des Cevennes are the only onions in France grown on terraces – over 2000 terraces to be precise, covering some 50 hectares with over 70 producers.

So, the next time you are out walking whether it’s in France or elsewhere see what signs you can see in the landscape to identify the changes that have occurred over the centuries to the people of the area and their livelihoods.

It remains to be seen whether this beautiful part of southern France will have its very own walking holiday or signature trip. Perhaps a hiking trail retracing the silk trade? Until then, take a look at all of our self-guided walking holidays.